The Twelve Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge!

16.01.2013

As much as we didn't want to leave the mesmerising Johanna Beach, we got up early on Day 10 as we had so many sites to see. We were continuing our journey along the beautiful Great Ocean Road towards some of Victoria's most famed natural landmarks.

Our first destination was the most famous of them all, the Twelve Apostles which form part of the spectacular Port Campbell National Park. When visiting the site, you are bluntly warned of two dangers here; snakes and unstable cliffs! To quote the sign, "You may fall and DIE." This didn't deter us and you will be pleased to hear we didn't encounter any dangerous reptiles (on this occasion, but we do see a snake later on in the trip!) or fall down any cliffs. 

If you aren't aware, the Twelve Apostles are a collection of limestone stacks located on the coast near the Great Ocean Road. They are formed by erosion caused by the rough sea conditions experienced in the Southern Ocean. The basic process is that the sea erodes the soft limestone rock to form a cave, which continues eroding to eventually become an arch, which over time collapses to leave a giant stack of rock which can be up to 45 metres high. It is ongoing and there are still many caves and arches lining the Victorian coastline which have yet to collapse. 

Despite originally being called the Sow and Piglets (our next stop, the Loch Ard Gorge, was the Sow and theses stacks were the piglets), the site was renamed in 1922 for tourism purposes even though there have only ever been 9 stacks not 12! In 2005, a 50 metre high stack collapsed and another followed in 2009 meaning there are now only 7 left - and with an erosion rate at the base of the pillars of 2cm a year, more will tumble. However, the waves continue to batter the coastline and more stacks will form in the future.

As they are now, the stacks are breathtaking and it a very special place to visit. Being another hot & sunny day, we had magnificent blue skies as a backdrop to this beautiful coastline. Along with the other visitors there, we stayed for a while just to soak up the beauty and atmosphere. I would return here in a heartbeat and recommend any visitor to Australia to make the journey if they can!

Having loved every second of the 'piglets', we were equally as excited to see the 'Sow' - or Loch Ard Gorge as it is known today. You learn about it's history on the signs scattered around the gorge. The site was named after a ship called Loch Ard, which ran aground nearby in 1878 after a 3 month journey from England to Melbourne. Only 2 of the 54 people on board survived; a 15 year old ship apprentice who was washed up ashore here and a 17 year old Irish girl immigrating to Australia who the apprentice saved upon hearing her cries. The arch of nearby Island Archway collapsed in 2009 forming two unconnected rock pillars which have been officially named as Tom and Eva in memory of the two survivors of the tragedy.

Once you arrive, you are able walk along the edge and look back to get this amazing shot back towards the gorge. However, for the best view of all you walk down the stairs onto the beach itself. From here, you get an incredible view and it shows just how beautiful the ugly process of erosion can be. On one side, you see wonderful rock formations and on the other, you see the pathway which has been carved into the rock by the sea, forming this picturesque oasis. The waves gently lap onto the golden shore, with the steep cliff faces & rich, blue sky forming an amazing backdrop. Once again, we were witnessing one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen and the memories will last a lifetime.

This was just one half of one hell of a day - in the next post we continue our journey to visit Thunder Cave, London Bridge and where Sherbrook River meets the ocean!

A queer day at Midsumma and a trip to St. Kilda beach!

13.01.2013

The last day of the first week of our trip was definitely a queer one. It was day 1 (and carnival) of the Midsumma Festival, Victoria's biggest celebration of gay culture for the LGBT & wider community. The weather wasn't playing ball, in contrast to the heat & blue skies of the previous days, we woke up to an overcast & drab day at a chilly 19oC. The event soon cheered us up though with stalls, music and a very entertaining dog show hosted by a fabulous drag queen who had plenty of 'bitchy' comments to offer...haha. Like any gay event, there were an array of interesting people both on & off the stage and a great turnout despite the lack of sunshine - we loved it!

Afterwards (even though the sun refused to come out), in typical British spirit, we jumped on a tram headed to the seaside. We checked out the quaint St. Kilda market with a whole host of stalls crammed full of original, local and often home-made, goods. The market is right next to the beach, so when were finished browsing, we sat and ate lunch looking out at the sea.

St. Kilda is the most famous beach in Melbourne and just 6kms (or 3.5 miles) from the CBD. The pier here is home to both a  beautiful little restaurant as well as a colony of Little Penguins - the same species as we saw at Phillip Island. On top of the beautiful sandy beach, you will find Luna Park (the sister of the park of the same name in Sydney) and a marina full of boats. We were spoilt with these fantastic views of the city as we strolled along the pier.

There is a cool, edgy feel to St. Kilda with lots of fascinating tourists & locals alike taking advantage of the plentiful cafes, shops & bars found here. And whilst the views are great every single day of the year, they get even better when the sun comes out to play. As I now have the pleasure of calling Melbourne home, after returning here at the end of the trip, I thought I would spoil you with some pictures of just how beautiful St. Kilda is in the sunshine.

 

                                     Jan 2013 vs March 2013 - the amazing views from St. Kilda pier in both cloud & sun!

These photo's were taken in March 2013 during the longest spell of consecutive days above 30oC on record in Melbourne - 10 days, peaking at a roasting 38oC. There was simply nowhere I would rather have been than swimming in the refreshingly cool waters of the Southern Ocean, looking back towards the golden sand with the city & blue skies as backdrop.

Day 2 in Melbourne city!

12.01.2013

As our first night in Melbourne was a late one, our second day got off to a delayed start. When it did start, we hopped onto a bus to Flinders Street ready to explore the CBD. Whilst it was just a typical bus ride, we did find this heart-shaped gum on the back of the seat in front - a small glimpse of the artistic expression shown by Melburnians, which we would see much more of later. 

Before setting off, we stopped at Walkers Doughnuts for hot dogs which were amazing. You get the dog - accompanied by a drink - for just 6 bucks, so it's super tasty & super cheap. We were then obliged to try one of the name-sake doughnuts that this place is famed for, and were not disappointed either. It's so good we came back as soon as we returned to Melbourne after the trip.

We followed a CBD route recommended in our Lonely Planet Guide to Australia, starting out in the ultra modern Federation Square (or Fed Square) which is a central meeting hub in the city. The free wi-fi is a useful attraction for two Internet-deprived tourists and the area consists of two large squares for people to relax, under the gaze of a giant Plaza screen and circled by restaurants, bars and shops. There are also a number of top attractions here including the Melbourne Visitor Centre, The Edge Theatre & National Gallery of Victoria, as well as pop-up works of art like this wooden hut. The area only opened in 2002 but was slammed by critics for being ugly & expensive. Whilst the very modern architecture of the buildings may not be to every ones taste, I thought it was a great space for the community as well as a superb attraction for tourists - and with 10 million visits last year, I can't be alone!

                                           Pop-up art                                                                 Fed square style archiecture

We continued along, with the route taking us through narrow alleys and along cobbled streets, reminiscent of home. One such alley was Hosier Lane and whilst UK streets are no strangers to graffiti, this is just one example of the many in Melbourne which are literally covered in graffiti forming a massive work of art, including the trash cans. I loved seeing the originality & design expressed by the local residents, particularly the Heath Ledger cum Joker piece below, and I still enjoy passing the 'public art' across many locations, now I am based in the city.

The route has us pass some impressive architecture such as Parliament House - the seat of the government in Victoria - and the Princess Theatre, eventually leading us to Melbourne's Chinatown. It is one of the longest continuous Chinese settlements in the western world and we spent our time enjoying the countless colourful Chinese stores and buildings found in the area.

  

                                                                   Chinatown                                           Chinese arch

Having ventured on to Bourke Street Mall, we found a Daiso store where all the items (imported in from Japan) cost just $2.80 - essentially a Japanese equivalent of Pound Land! We desperately tried to find something for our trip, but had to settle with a can of Japanese soft drink. One of the best things about walking around Melbourne is the array of street art found sprawled around; not just the pop-up work and graffiti, but objects like the decorative street sign for Dame Edna Place, the hanging lanterns on Swanston Street or the giant purse-shaped bench. These are just a few of the many random things you find on a trip to the CBD.

Our walk ended back in Fed Square where we took advantage of free deck chairs to rest our tired legs & enjoy the view along Southbank; an area of the city occupied by high-rise offices, mingled with bars & cafes, sitting beside the banks of the Yarra. Southbank is also home to the Crown complex where we saw Ricki-lee the night before, the tall spiral of the Arts centre and the Eureka Tower which all make impressive additions to the city skyline, and this one of the main entertainment hubs of Melbourne.

Eureka Tower, at 297m (975 ft or 91 storeys) dominates the skyline and is one of the tallest residential buildings in the world. Named after a rebellion during the Victorian Gold Rush called the Eureka Stockade, the gold crown on it's top represents the gold rush and the red stripe represents the blood spilt during the revolt. More excitingly, floor #88 is a public observation deck which, at 285 metres, is the highest public vantage point in the Southern Hemisphere. For an extra cost, the bravest visitors can also walk in to the Edge; a glass cube which sits 3 metres outside of the building, 300 metres above the ground - the glass gradually becoming completely see-through! 

                     Free deckchairs in Fed Square, Eureka Tower and Arts Centre                

We successfully avoided the temptation of visiting the Mcdonalds here which is actually called Maccas (as it is more commonly called in Australia) and arrive at MoVida. Another Lonely Planet recommendation, this Spanish tapas bar sits next door to the graffiti-decorated Hosier Lane we visited earlier, and we enjoyed a cheeky drink with some amazing (if small) tapas dishes. This said, the staff were very friendly and the food was delicious - what more could you ask for!

Enjoying the tapas, with the graffiti in the background

After some spicy food, the logical place to visit next was the Chill On Ice Lounge which cost just $60 for both of us and $15 for a souvenir snap. Entry includes an alcoholic cocktail (or mocktail for the kids) of your choice, with the chance to buy more if you like. Once you are tightly wrapped in a snug jacket & black Uggs (what else when down under), you walk into a giant ice room where temps hover around -10oC. You can play ice games, pose with ice statues for an icy picture or just enjoy the fresh yet bitterly cold air, sipping your drink. Once the 40 minutes are up, it's a relief to enter the warmth outside but this is one unforgettable experience which everybody should enjoy - a perfect way to refresh on a hot Ozzy day!

As well as the street art, you can't help but marvel at the many ways to get around here. Alongside the standard buses, trains & taxis found in any city in the world, Melbourne offers you bike hire with pick up/drop off stations spread across the city, bicycle taxis in the form of pedicabs, horse & cart journeys and of course, my favourite, the trams! There are 487 (both old-fashioned and super modern) trams operating on a gigantic 250 km (155 miles) of track with 30 routes & 1,763 tram stops, making it the largest urban tram network anywhere in the world. The trams are used by locals, commuters & tourists alike, but for a travel geek like me it was well worth squeezing on to one of the old trams still operating the number 35 city circle route. Not only is this tourist service completely free, it circles the entire CBD passing all worthwhile attractions whilst sitting on board an old fashioned, heritage tram. It's a superb - if packed - way to see the city.

                                                   Horse & Cart                                                          Bike hire 

Route 35 City Circle tram

It was a busy but amazing second day, ending with a spectacular sunset back in the park. We were already looking forward to checking out St. Kilda and its famous beach tomorrow. More in my next post!