12.01.2013
As our first night in Melbourne was a late one, our second day got off to a delayed start. When it did start, we hopped onto a bus to Flinders Street ready to explore the CBD. Whilst it was just a typical bus ride, we did find this heart-shaped gum on the back of the seat in front - a small glimpse of the artistic expression shown by Melburnians, which we would see much more of later.
Before setting off, we stopped at Walkers Doughnuts for hot dogs which were amazing. You get the dog - accompanied by a drink - for just 6 bucks, so it's super tasty & super cheap. We were then obliged to try one of the name-sake doughnuts that this place is famed for, and were not disappointed either. It's so good we came back as soon as we returned to Melbourne after the trip.
We followed a CBD route recommended in our Lonely Planet Guide to Australia, starting out in the ultra modern Federation Square (or Fed Square) which is a central meeting hub in the city. The free wi-fi is a useful attraction for two Internet-deprived tourists and the area consists of two large squares for people to relax, under the gaze of a giant Plaza screen and circled by restaurants, bars and shops. There are also a number of top attractions here including the Melbourne Visitor Centre, The Edge Theatre & National Gallery of Victoria, as well as pop-up works of art like this wooden hut. The area only opened in 2002 but was slammed by critics for being ugly & expensive. Whilst the very modern architecture of the buildings may not be to every ones taste, I thought it was a great space for the community as well as a superb attraction for tourists - and with 10 million visits last year, I can't be alone!
We continued along, with the route taking us through narrow alleys and along cobbled streets, reminiscent of home. One such alley was Hosier Lane and whilst UK streets are no strangers to graffiti, this is just one example of the many in Melbourne which are literally covered in graffiti forming a massive work of art, including the trash cans. I loved seeing the originality & design expressed by the local residents, particularly the Heath Ledger cum Joker piece below, and I still enjoy passing the 'public art' across many locations, now I am based in the city.
The route has us pass some impressive architecture such as Parliament House - the seat of the government in Victoria - and the Princess Theatre, eventually leading us to Melbourne's Chinatown. It is one of the longest continuous Chinese settlements in the western world and we spent our time enjoying the countless colourful Chinese stores and buildings found in the area.
Having ventured on to Bourke Street Mall, we found a Daiso store where all the items (imported in from Japan) cost just $2.80 - essentially a Japanese equivalent of Pound Land! We desperately tried to find something for our trip, but had to settle with a can of Japanese soft drink. One of the best things about walking around Melbourne is the array of street art found sprawled around; not just the pop-up work and graffiti, but objects like the decorative street sign for Dame Edna Place, the hanging lanterns on Swanston Street or the giant purse-shaped bench. These are just a few of the many random things you find on a trip to the CBD.
Our walk ended back in Fed Square where we took advantage of free deck chairs to rest our tired legs & enjoy the view along Southbank; an area of the city occupied by high-rise offices, mingled with bars & cafes, sitting beside the banks of the Yarra. Southbank is also home to the Crown complex where we saw Ricki-lee the night before, the tall spiral of the Arts centre and the Eureka Tower which all make impressive additions to the city skyline, and this one of the main entertainment hubs of Melbourne.
Eureka Tower, at 297m (975 ft or 91 storeys) dominates the skyline and is one of the tallest residential buildings in the world. Named after a rebellion during the Victorian Gold Rush called the Eureka Stockade, the gold crown on it's top represents the gold rush and the red stripe represents the blood spilt during the revolt. More excitingly, floor #88 is a public observation deck which, at 285 metres, is the highest public vantage point in the Southern Hemisphere. For an extra cost, the bravest visitors can also walk in to the Edge; a glass cube which sits 3 metres outside of the building, 300 metres above the ground - the glass gradually becoming completely see-through!
We successfully avoided the temptation of visiting the Mcdonalds here which is actually called Maccas (as it is more commonly called in Australia) and arrive at MoVida. Another Lonely Planet recommendation, this Spanish tapas bar sits next door to the graffiti-decorated Hosier Lane we visited earlier, and we enjoyed a cheeky drink with some amazing (if small) tapas dishes. This said, the staff were very friendly and the food was delicious - what more could you ask for!
Enjoying the tapas, with the graffiti in the background
After some spicy food, the logical place to visit next was the Chill On Ice Lounge which cost just $60 for both of us and $15 for a souvenir snap. Entry includes an alcoholic cocktail (or mocktail for the kids) of your choice, with the chance to buy more if you like. Once you are tightly wrapped in a snug jacket & black Uggs (what else when down under), you walk into a giant ice room where temps hover around -10oC. You can play ice games, pose with ice statues for an icy picture or just enjoy the fresh yet bitterly cold air, sipping your drink. Once the 40 minutes are up, it's a relief to enter the warmth outside but this is one unforgettable experience which everybody should enjoy - a perfect way to refresh on a hot Ozzy day!
As well as the street art, you can't help but marvel at the many ways to get around here. Alongside the standard buses, trains & taxis found in any city in the world, Melbourne offers you bike hire with pick up/drop off stations spread across the city, bicycle taxis in the form of pedicabs, horse & cart journeys and of course, my favourite, the trams! There are 487 (both old-fashioned and super modern) trams operating on a gigantic 250 km (155 miles) of track with 30 routes & 1,763 tram stops, making it the largest urban tram network anywhere in the world. The trams are used by locals, commuters & tourists alike, but for a travel geek like me it was well worth squeezing on to one of the old trams still operating the number 35 city circle route. Not only is this tourist service completely free, it circles the entire CBD passing all worthwhile attractions whilst sitting on board an old fashioned, heritage tram. It's a superb - if packed - way to see the city.
Horse & Cart Bike hire
Route 35 City Circle tram
It was a busy but amazing second day, ending with a spectacular sunset back in the park. We were already looking forward to checking out St. Kilda and its famous beach tomorrow. More in my next post!
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